Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Dreams of Mars Landings and Cotton Mountains (Turkey)


 
I went to the airport and by strange coincidence met a pretty young girl who had glorious ideas of traversing the Turkish terrain. She had come all the way from Australia and her name was Rinski. I couldn’t take my eyes off her, and every word she spoke was poetry to my ears. So I said, Yeah, of course I’ll be joining you. And finally, after months of being apart, we were together again. It felt like a dream.

We travelled around Turkey together. These are the places we visited:

Selchuk

The town is very quiet and laid back – perfect for what I wanted after Istanbul. Rin and I had a great time exploring the ruins or a citadel in Selchuk and the following day walking 3 kms out of town to reach the bigger ruin complex, which hosted an impressive ancient Roman amphitheatre. The history, which I won’t detail here, was quite interesting. But to me the point of travelling is not to see what people were doing way back when, but to see what they are doing now. I am usually affected more profoundly by the ordinary as opposed to the extraordinary, though the latter can be usually be well worth the entrance fee. That’s why, when Rin and I stumbled across a market with locals selling veggies and homemade clothing etc., I was pleased to see the locals living their interesting and different lives in the now. We bought some Turkish delight and some nuts off an old lady, and some fruit off an old man.

As turkey is a Muslim majority country, the Mosques throughout the town and the countryside in reaching the town were very impressive, and the call to prayer (an Arabic song reciting the Koran) that sounds several times a day makes these small towns so much more exotic. 

 

Pamukkale

 
As we got closer to Pammukale, which translates to Cotton Mountain, the white mass that looks like its snowed on just one section of a mountain slope got bigger and bigger. Exploring the natural phenomenon, I remember thinking it was somehow a combination of a ski slope and a cave. The limestone feature is, as the photos show, pure white and crystalline, and looks completely surreal in the landscape. Add the pools, which punctuate the slope, and the streaming water which constantly flows over the slope and allows this feature to continue to grow, and it soon looks like the set of a sci fi movie. It was great to walk around barefoot and take a dip in the pools. And a cherry on top is the ancient ruins just above where an ancient peoples set up shop to take advantage of the nice pools and great scenery.

Fethiye

My first swim of months of swims in the mediterrean, and a great place for it. Also, here we caught a bus up into the hills to visit an old Greek town that had been cleared out and abandoned when the Turkish government kicked all minority Greeks out of the country. To this day it remains as a ghost town. From there we walked 10kms back into town in the 38 degree temperature.

 
 
 
Antalya
The town has a nice ‘old town’ area but trying to explore it during the day where temperatures were a sticky and humid 38 degrees was a bit painful. Nonetheless, there was some nice coastline scenery with waterfalls pouring over small cliffs into the calm Mediterranean sea, and crystal clear water. And Antalya was the place of one of my fondest memories this year; each night we’d head down to the pebbly beach after the sun had gone down and the air cooled off, and swim in the clear water as the sky turned pink and the growing moon rose over the sea horizon. To make it more perfect there are enormous mountains to the right of the horizon which were painted in soft blues and purples that time of day, and to the left a steady stream of planes taking off into the evening sky. It felt surreal. Floating on the dusk…

                         (no photo because we never wanted to take valuables down to beach)

Konya

As I previously mentioned about the ordinary being more satisfying than the extraordinary, Konya was one of the highlights of Turkey for me. There’s not a lot to see or do here but it was a fascinating place to stop because it was not touristy at all and Erin and I were getting looks from the locals. This town is one of the most conservative Muslim in the country and the majority of women cover up. I had to put on long pants in the heat and Rin had to cover herself up a lot, just to be respectful. When we went to visit a mosque, she had to cover everything, including her head. But hilariously, in a market place we saw a stall selling all sorts of lingerie, some of it quite kinky, by a lady in full black headpiece. It really makes me wonder what goes on under those burkas.

In this town we got to see a performance of the dervish twirling dance, which is a Sufi dance that connects the dances to god as they spin endlessly and go into a trance. It was cool to see.

Cappadoccia

The most highly anticipated stop here and it didn’t let us down. It’s a strange landscape of white and pink rock  jutting rock and ‘fairy chimneys’ pointing into the sky, some of which people have hollowed out to live inside. We stayed in a cave hotel and did lots of hiking. Walking through this bizzare landscape and hearing the Muslim call to prayer in the distance just made the whole thing more alien.

The highlight was getting up at 3.30 in the morning to do a balloon ride over the landscape at dawn. This was extraordinary, and as I said, sometimes it’s worth the entrance fee. We floated in amongst the valleys of the mars like landscape and then high into the air as the sun rose and the moon went down. That blew my mind.

The air was so calm that our driver landed the balloon on the trailer and we didn’t get to crash land (which I was looking forward too).

 
Antalya

The capital city of Turkey. I guess it’s like Canberra in the sense that there’s not much going on. We made a stopover just to have a look around and while there wasn’t much to see in terms of sights, it was nice to walk around and see people go about their business. Also, there was still tension between protesters and police, which made me a little concerned about heading back to Istanbul…


                                                     (above: Fethiye, below: Feasting)












 



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